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The rise of fine mezcal

31.12.69

Lets get this out of the way: Acceptable mezcal has nothing to do with worms or psychedelic trips.Good mezcal is a harmonious ' and complex spirit. Its smoky in a way that reminds me of Islay Scotch, with a vegetal sweetness that could leak out only from Mexico and an earthiness imparted from 400-year-old distilling methods.Theres not very much in the excellent, especially in the spirits world, that is original and made the old way, says Ron Cooper, go down of Del Maguey Single Village mezcals and a mezcal missionary.As Cooper tells it, he first tasted mezcal in the 1970s while entr-tripping through Mexico. On return trips to Oaxaca, where most mezcal is made, he sought out palenqueros, or mezcal makers, and controlled rare bottles. But the spirit he loved was hard to come by in the U.S., so he started Del Maguey in 1995 to signify it.I brought it out to make sure it was available to me and my friends, Cooper says. Its spread slowly by consultation of mouth.And Coopers sheer dint of will. He has spent unlimited hours introducing mezcal to enthusiasts, bartenders, distributors and retailers efforts that have inchmeal turned mezcal into a craft cocktail darling.Ryan Maybee, co-possessor of Manifesto and the Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange, hosted Cooper during a bartender result in 2009. He then traveled to Oaxaca last year with Cooper and drinks wizard Steve Olson to visit mezcal distilleries in what proved a transformative adventure.Rons legacy is not just introducing a cool product here, but the impact hes had on those villages, Maybee says.Thats because even as technology and corporate ownership have reshaped the universal distilling industry, mezcal has remained a largely rustic one's own flesh affair. Agave, also called maguey, is still harvested by hand and hauled by burro to tin-roofed, unwrapped-air distilleries. The maguey hearts, or piñas, are piled into an earthen or stone-lined pit, or palenque; covered with rocks, planet, banana leaves, palm fiber mats or other plant physical, depending on the distillery; and roasted for days or even weeks.After roasting, the now beloved and smoky piñas are crushed with horse-powered stone mills called tahonas, fermented in deadpan tanks and double-distilled in small, wood-fired clay or copper stills. (Verification out Del Magueys website, mezcal.com, for photos of the process.)There are no computers, hydrometers or automated bottling lines, impartial what the Complete Encyclopedia of Wine, Beer and Spirits (Calton Books, 2000) describes as nothing more than specific resources, intuition and soul.The process sounds wild, but it is in truth grueling work that has until recently generated little loot, says Ansley Coale, a partner in Craft Distilling, which owns the Los Nahuales and Mezcalero brands.Anyone making nobility mezcal was doing it because he was gifted and really cared, not because of the money, Coale says.That may be changing as Americans find new gratitude for the spirit, especially in cocktails.The beauty of mezcal is that its not bashful about what it is, says Beau Williams, Manifestos bar administrator. We try to play that up rather than cover it up.Williams matched Del Magueys Crema de Mezcal with lime spirit and fig syrup in the La Prohibida to win second place in the 2009 Greater Kansas Burg Bartending Competition. The drink remains a staple on Manifestos menu. Upstairs at the Rieger, bar manageress Jenn Tosatto combines Del Magueys Vida, Dimmi Liquore di Milano herbal liqueur, agave nectar, lime extract and hot water for a toddy-ish drink.Mezcal is also a perfect fit for the Mexican roadway food-style cooking of Port Fonda, the stationary outpost of the Refuge Fonda El Comedor food truck thats set to open in Westport this hop. The bar menu will include mezcal margaritas and Bloody Marias, as well as duplicity drinks that match the spirit with fresh juices and grilled fruits.4 Olives Wine Bar in Manhattan, Kan., stirs Sombra mezcal (a micro-volume, single-village mezcal), Luxardo maraschino liqueur, Notable Marnier, muddled thyme and house-made Jerry Thomas bitters into a Manhattan-like cocktail.Mezcal is not only for mixing, though. Even though most mezcals are released tout de suite as blancos, they are smooth and complex enough to sip neat. Del Magueys Single Village mezcals so named because each comes from a distinct village in Oaxaca range from the floral and fruity to the heavily spicy. Los Nahuales ages its reposado and añejo mezcals for nine to 12 months and 18 to 24 months, mutatis mutandis, in French oak, making them a delicious alternative to whiskey.The spirits versatility means its also surprisingly sustenance-friendly some even match with dessert. Craig Adcock of Judes Kansas Municipality Rum Cake proved that point during a recent Slow Food Kansas See event, where he paired Del Magueys Crema de Mezcal with his buttery, pecan-studded rum loaf.If you shoot it, youre not going to get it, Adcock says. But if you sip it, youll be blown away. <h3>MEZCAL VS. TEQUILA</h3></go over>As the saying goes, all tequilas are mezcal, but not all mezcals are tequila. Heres why: tequila can be made only with the Weber glum agave within a defined geographic area (most of which is in the state of Jalisco); the agave is as a rule cooked in steam ovens or autoclaves. Mezcal is made from many agave varieties throughout Mexico; the agave is roasted in wood-fired earthen or stone-lined pits. The prospective of artisanal mezcal producers is in flux though, thanks to proposed regulations that would bound the use of the word agave and dictate the specifications, proof methods and commercial intelligence related to alcoholic beverages produced with agave. For more information on the pay-off, go to the Tequila Interchange Project (tequilainterchangeproject.com/stop-nom-186.html). For more data on production, visit:• Del Maguey Single Village mezcals, <a href ="http://mezcal.com/" quarry="_blank">mezcal.com</a>• <go over class="bold">Los Nahuales and <bridge class="bold">Mezcalero, <a href ="http://craftdistillers.com/" quarry="_blank">craftdistillers.com</a>• <overpass class="bold">Sombra, <a href ="http://sombraoaxaca.com/" butt="_blank">sombraoaxaca.com</a><h3>TASTING NOTES</h3></extend over>Mezcal can be distilled from many varieties of agave, or maguey. Some, like espadin, are sophisticated, while others, such as tobala and tepeztate, are wild and rare. As a result, artisan mezcals fluctuate from light and bright to bold and spicy all with an overlay of smoke thats innate to the spirit. Most are unaged (also called blanco or joven) and at least 80 proof.• <interval class="bold">Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal Chichicapa </stretch over>($69) is smoky but delicate, with herbal notes and hints of candied fruit, grassy peppercorn and citrus.• Del Maguey Crema de Mezcal ($41) is sweetened with unfermented, roasted agave nectar. The development is supple and clean, with vanilla, tropical fruit and a little smoke.• <spell class="bold">Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal Santa Catarina Minas Minero </cross>($69) tastes a bit of flowers and burnt honey, with a long conclude.• Del Maguey Lone Village Mezcal Pechuga ($199) is made by combining Minero with deserted mountain apples and plums, red plaintains, pineapples, almonds and uncooked whitish rice and distilled a third time. A specially prepared chicken soul is suspended above the still and acts like a filter during the process. The result: candied apple aromas and intensely complex fruity, smoky and supple flavors that give way to a long polish off kill. This is the rarest of Del Magueys mezcals; only 25 to 30 cases are produced each year.• <extent class="bold">Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal San Luis del Rio </link>($69) is rich and textured, with spice, fruit and a hint of citrus.• <stretch class="bold">Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal Santo Domingo Albarradas </go over>($69) is structured, its spicy brightness tempered by minerality and grilled pineapple notes.• <reach over class="bold">Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal Tobala </term>($120) is distilled from a wild maguey variety said to expand only in highest reaches of the Oaxacan Mountains. Its smoky, with fruit and ban pepper notes and a floral character that could come from the wild roses growing a few feet from the divulge-air still.• Del Maguey Distinguish Village Mezcal Vida ($36) is smooth, put on lighten, a bit briny and excellent in cocktails. • Los Nahuales Blanco ($52) is smoky, sharp and smooth.• Los Nahuales Reposado ($65) is a weighty mezcal, profuse in with vanilla, oak, spice and agave sweetness well worth sipping.• <period class="bold">Los Nahuales Anejo</interval> ($97) is a powerhouse along the lines of a single-malt Scotch Sneaky Pete; its smoke and spice are tempered with oaky sweetness.• <time class="bold">Mezcalero ($80) is akin to a cull-barrel whiskey each release is unique. Release #3 is described as lavish, brisk and clean; Release #4 as spicy, suave and complex.• Sombra Agave De Oaxaca Mezcal</stretch> ($40) is smoky yet bright, with a mineral-like character and grassy, tropical fruit notes and non-radioactive finish.<h3>Old Oaxacan</h3>I first tasted mezcal at Manifesto in the Crossroads Arts Neighbourhood, and the bars Old Oaxacan (which is now off the menu, but you can always request it) quickly became a favorite. Indeed, I find it hard to countervail against anything on the menu thats made with mezcal. As Ansley Coale of Craft Distillers says, Mezcal seems to sting people and not let go.Makes 1 drink2 ounces Del Maguey Distinct Village Mezcal, preferably the Chichicapa or Minero1 bar spoon agave nectar3 dashes Angostura orange bittersLemon spiceStir all ingredients over ice until well chilled. Strain into a rocks lorgnette over one large cube. Garnish with lemon zest. Per drink: 206 calories (none from fat), vestige protein, 19 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, no fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, 7 milligrams sodium.

Source: Kansas City Star

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